AFA Red Siskin Project

Do's & Don'ts For Your Finches

COLD DRAFTS: KEEP BIRDS OUT OF DIRECT COLD DRAFTS at all times, especially at night when the bird sleeps. The birds are not active at night and cannot generate enough heat to compensate for the rapid change in temperature. There is usually no shelter in a cage for the bird to be able to move away from the draft. Watch your air conditioner and fans in summer. Birds shouldn't be pelted with cold or warm air any time of the year. A gental breeze or air circulation is sufficient as long as it is NOT BLOWING ON THE BIRD.

HEAT REGISTERS: Don't locate the bird's cage above a heat register. This will cause the bird to overheat, and the bird's water can evaporate or remain warm, growing bacteria at a very fast rate. It also causes undue stress to the bird - in  overheating conditions the bird will have to drink and bathe more frequently. Overheating for long periods can cause a bird to go into an unscheduled molt at an unnatural time of the year. This will thin out a bird's feathering, not allowing the bird to regulate its body temperature.

SUNSHINE: Sunshine is good for birds, just like for people. It helps absorb and process vitamin D, which helps us process calcium. Birds cannot absorb these vitamins through a closed window. The sun's rays cannot penetrate the glass. When placing your bird by a open window, make sure there is a safety screen in place to prevent outside animals from attacking your bird. When placing your bird outdoors, DO NOT PLACE THE CAGE IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT. A partially shaded spot will do. Place the cage where you will be able to keep an eye out for animals or pets attacking your bird.

CAGE DECORATIONS: Birds enjoy feeling safe in their cage. Many finches and the small softbills can enjoy being surrounded by silk, plastic greenery in or outside the cage. REMEMBER - THESE BIRDS ARE ACTIVE AND REQUIRE A ROOMY CAGE. DON'T OVERDO THE NATURAL EFFECT YOU'RE TRYING TO CREATE.

SLEEPING BIRDS: Some birds like to sleep on a perch or "roost" at night. This means they don't like to sleep in nests. Other small birds like to sleep in a nest. Larger birds, like canaries, parakeets, ringnecks, quakers, conures, amazons, etc. like their cages covered at night to block out the light in the room to sleep. They'll usually let you know if they want to be covered by chirping, clicking, or making some sort of complaining noises.

LIGHTING: The normal length of light from outside is a natural cycle in the wild. Birds who live in a cage rely on their caretakers to regulate their resting time during the year. Birds go through a cycle and the amount of light determines what part of the cycle the bird is in. In the summer, 14-15 hours of light per day is required. Resting season, or winter, is the time when birds molt, regrow new feathers, and build up good health. During this resting time, birds need no less than 8 to 10 hours of light per day. Light can be provided by a window in the house, a house lamp, or cage fixture. The amount of brightness also affects this cycle.

MOLTING: This is a cycle time during the year the bird will lose older feathers. It is pretty hard not to notice when this happens. Make sure it's not caused by other birds picking each other or by complete lack of light. This is an important time for the bird. Feathers enable to bird to fly, provide balance and regulate its body temperature. The owner is to provide extra nutritional maintenance of food so the bird can replenish these feathers without losing body or bone mass. Vitamins, fruit, vegetables, cuttlebone, and if possible extra protein should be provided for the molting cycle. Molting can be stressful on a bird's system. Canaries usually will not sing during a molt. Don't confuse molting with a bird being pecked by other birds. This is a common occurrence due to stress from overcrowded cages, lack of calcium in the diet, or breeding behavior, depending on the bird and the situation. Familiarize yourself with these characteristics by reading reference materials on birds.

WATER: Always provide any bird with fresh clean water. The smaller birds are more active and require water more often. They also enjoy bathing more frequently.

BATHING: Bathing helps keep feathers in good condition, and encourages the bird to preen more often. Caged birds sometimes will not bathe in cages, so you may have to encourage preening by using a spray bottle. This bottle should be used only for your birds. Do not use bottles which may contain residue of yard spray or household cleaning fluid. Spritz your birds once a day (morning or afternoon is best). Late evening may not be a good idea, since birds become less active as the evening grows and may not be totally dry before sleeping. This could spell disaster.

SEED: The smaller finch should always be provided plenty of seed all day long. The smaller birds have a higher metabolism and are more active so they require a constant food supply. If left with no seed for more than 3 hours the bird will weaken healthwise and if left will eventually die. Check reference books regarding the size seed and quantity needed to maintain your size bird.

PELLET FOOD: Some people swear by it, while others only use it as a supplement with what is usually offered to their birds. This is a personal choice; you will have to decide for yourself. If your lifestyle does not allow you to supply a varied diet, then a daily pellet food may be the best for your bird. Speak to a bird expert before changing a bird's diet. There's more to it than changing the contents of the seed cup. Most softbill systems do require pelleted food in addition to everything else on these pages. Again, check reference books on your type of bird.

FRUIT AND VEGETABLES: Birds in the wild require vegetation and fruit; so should your caged bird. It is always a "plus" to offer them. Items you regularly have in your refrigerator or garden can be shared with your bird. Always rinse every vegetable or fruit well - insecticide residue can be fatal. Check reference books on what type of fruits your bird species prefers and enjoys. You may find that your eating habits will also improve, so both of you will benefit healthwise!

POWDERED NECTAR: Some birds like powdered nectar in addition to seed or a pellet diet. If you can afford to buy these types of birds (like honey creepers, white eye, hummingbirds or lories) you have hopefully done some research prior to your purchase. These birds do require natural or powdered nectar, and they require it all day. It is recommended that you read as much as possible before buying any bird. Avoid impulse purchases - these nectar-eating types will not survive very long (perhaps a few days) without proper care.

INSECTS: Some birds like bugs as a treat or additional protein. Others require a regular diet of bugs. There are many reference books available at your library and book stores. There are bird clubs in which to ask also.  Mealworms are the most common bugs given to birds.

SOFT FOOD: Soft food is better known as egg food or nesting food. This usually consists of a mixture of hard boiled egg (protein), some type of store-bought nestling food, powdered hand-feeding formula (fortified minerals, protein, carbohydrates, packaged bird conditioning food or pulverized bird pellet or biscuit food). Other additives can include, but are not limited to, fine cornmeal, shaved cuttlebone, vitamins, wheatgerm oil and powdered oyster shell. This supplement is given in addition to vegetables, fruit and seed. It is recommended to offer enough to the bird to ensure that it will be eaten, but not left to spoil.

CAGE SIZE: It is recommended that you offer your birds a good sized cage. Small finches need just as much room as the larger birds. Finches are active and require exercise to remain fit and healthy. The recommended ratio for permanent living quarters per 5" finch is 18 high X 32 wide X 15 space. The height isn't necessarily as important as the width. Width is for flying exercise space from perch to perch. The bird should fly, not hop, to each perch. The larger the cage, the more surface area, the happier the bird, and the less often you have to clean it. You can make a real nice nature habitat. Taller cages aren't that beneficial to finches.  Most hang around the top perches anyway so tall cages aren't a plus. They'll just poop on everything below. Exercise will prolong the life of any bird you own. The larger birds can tend to get bored and can pluck their feathers out because of boredom or lack of activity or wanting to breed. Of course, you will have to go with a larger cage with stronger bars for such birds. Check with your bird club for the different sizes each of these birds require.

PERCHES: Perches for finches should be placed strategically next to food cups, not on top of them. There should be a minimum of 2 perches in a cage. They should be placed far enough away from the sides of the cage so the bird's tail feathers won't brush up against the cage. Swings can be another accessible perch. If you have a large cage, make sure you have enough perches so that  bickering over perch space won't be a problem. Always clean these items at least once a week. Small birds use their perches as napkins; wiping their beaks on a filthy surface is not good. Make sure the size of the dowel or plastic perch is the correct size for the bird's feet. Oversized perches can cause the toe nails to curl. Ask a Bird Club member to assist you in picking out a correct size perch.

SEED AND WATER CUPS: Perhaps the best location in a cage for food cups would be inside, in the center, where it is least likely for uneaten seeds and empty hulls to be sprayed all over the floor of the room. Sometimes this is not possible. Some cups come with hoods - these are good, to protect from droppings or the seeds from being thrown out. Other feeders act as seed dispensers - they hang on the outside of the cage and are reinforced with a wire clip or chain. These unload seed with gravity upon demand. Watch the wires and clips, though - nothing sharp should protrude into the cage. Make sure your bird is not the type that figured out how to unload all the seed. The Canary is famous for that. This will not make you happy.

OVERALL HEALTH: A good birdkeeper is an informed person. Your birds will live longer and you'll be happier too. Listening to your bird sing can brighten what was turning out to be a ugly day. It's a hobby, a distraction from work and can be used as a relaxing tool. Yes, birds can be messy, but what isn't?